Sports heritage lost in Old Dhaka

Play and sports are crucial for a child’s mental development. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), every person requires at least 9 square meters of open space, whether it’s a park or a field. This means that for 1,000 people, about 2.5 acres of open land is necessary. However, in a city as densely populated as Dhaka, such proportional open space is almost unimaginable. Currently, only about 16% of Dhaka's residents have access to even the minimum sports facilities. This alarming statistic was revealed at a discussion titled “Urban Sports Field Planning and Management in Bangladesh: Challenges and Way Forward.”

The current picture of sports in Dhaka only shows one side of the coin. The other side reveals a rich past, with Dhaka, particularly Old Dhaka, serving as the center of sports culture in Bangladesh. The hundreds of "akhara" (training centers) along the banks of the Buriganga River were once hubs for athletic training, making them an essential part of Dhaka’s entertainment. Athletes from various parts of undivided India settled around these akharas, enriching Dhaka’s sports culture with a diversity of styles and practices.

Yet, the akharas, once symbols of passion, love, and dreams for countless young people, have been overtaken by urbanization and concrete structures. While the exact origins of these training centers remain unclear, references to Dhaka's wrestling culture appear in Hakim Habibur Rahman’s book, Dhaka Panchas Baras Pehle, which mentions that this practice was brought to Dhaka by Muslims during the Mughal era, later expanding over time.

Toward the end of British rule, the authorities imposed strict restrictions on the activities of these akharas, especially on wrestling, as the centers attracted students and young men who were inspired to join the anti-British movement. At its peak, Dhaka had around 300 akharas, but today none remain.

The akharas primarily focused on wrestling, and the area designated for wrestling was called "fulka," a place covered with red clay. Unlike modern mats, this red clay surface was oiled with ghee and curd before use. This clay was traditionally sourced from three locations, including Azimpur. Revered local community members would often carry the red clay to the fulka, underscoring the community’s respect for the akharas. Though people from all religions participated in these sports, Muslims predominated in number, though several well-known Hindu wrestlers were also celebrated, reflecting the akharas' inclusivity.

Renowned wrestlers or "palwans" of the time included figures like Ragunath Shankhari, Buche Khalifa, Kala Khalifa, Azizuddin Khalifa, and Haider Palwan, among others. Abdul Halim, a celebrated boxer, also began his training in an Old Dhaka akhara, offering a glimpse into the dedication and enthusiasm surrounding sports there.

Over time, the treatment of these akharas evolved. Abdul Halim recalls how wrestlers used pure mustard oil on the clay instead of ghee, and from early dawn, the akharas would come alive with activity. The final remnant of Old Dhaka's sports heritage, the Nabojug Gymnasium, has since been replaced by a high-rise built by the Dhaka South City Corporation. Although there were promises of maintaining sports facilities, only a small gym occupies a corner of the building, with limited access.

Besides wrestling and boxing, Old Dhaka has a rich tradition of other sports like hockey and bodybuilding. While the legacy of hockey has been preserved somewhat, thanks to people like former player Fazlul Islam, who passed away this year, many other sports traditions have dwindled over time.

Veteran organizer Mohammad Yusuf Ali recalls how sports used to dominate the mornings in Old Dhaka neighborhoods. Various events would revolve around the akharas, forming part of celebratory observances on special occasions. However, with time, these are now only memories.

Tabibur Rahman Palwan, who has been at the helm of the Bangladesh Amateur Wrestling Federation since 1978, reminisces about the heyday of sports culture in Old Dhaka, when each locality was buzzing with activity around the akharas. Despite his lifelong commitment to sports, he laments that the once-thriving sports centers are now only memories.

Bodybuilding, which followed wrestling as the most popular activity in the akharas, was also prominent. Technical official and organizer Zahir Chowdhury recalls officiating bodybuilding competitions at some of the akharas. Though many sports have faded from Old Dhaka, fitness clubs have emerged, keeping bodybuilding practices alive, albeit as a hobby rather than a profession due to high costs.

Once a place of strength and honor, the sports arena has gradually shifted to a more professional model without establishing a robust system. Though a Sports Control Board was formed after independence (now the National Sports Council), the development of sports has been inadequate, hampered by mismanagement and lack of support. Meanwhile, neighborhood-level sports activities have declined, and as a result, the overall sports culture in the country is weakening.

National award-winning boxer Abdul Halim expresses regret, saying, “Our youth have fallen into a dangerous spiral of drugs and negativity. Revitalizing sports is the only way to guide them back onto the right path.”

Mahbub Sarkar is a sports journalist.