We must nurture Hilsa to keep it in our waters

Dr. Md. Anisur Rahman is a prominent hilsa researcher. He has served as the chief scientific officer at the Bangladesh Fisheries Research Center in Chandpur and as the director of the Finance and Administration Department at the Bangladesh Fisheries Research Institute in Mymensingh. Currently, he is on LPR. Dr. Anis has played a crucial role in research on hilsa, as well as in planning and implementing bans to protect jatka (young hilsa) and mother hilsa. In light of the ongoing 22-day ban on catching mother hilsa from October 13 to November 3, he discusses the management strategies and actions the interim government needs to take to boost hilsa production. He also sheds light on the reasons behind the skyrocketing prices of hilsa, the significance of hilsa in our history and heritage, and its role as a key element in our culture, economy, politics, and even foreign policy. This interview was conducted by K M Zahid for 'Views Bangladesh.'

Views Bangladesh: What is the relationship between hilsa fish and Bengali heritage and culture?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: The relationship between hilsa and Bengali history and culture is deeply intertwined. Hilsa is our national fish and a symbol of our heritage. Its nature is migratory and diverse, and it plays a significant role in transboundary issues as well. If a fish from the sea is released into fresh water, it cannot survive due to osmotic pressure. Similarly, a freshwater fish released into the sea also cannot thrive because of osmotic and other challenges. However, hilsa uniquely thrives in both environments. This adaptability symbolizes the courage and resilience of the Bengali people. The ability to endure adversity is one reason why this fish holds such a cherished place in our hearts.

Views Bangladesh: How many species of hilsa are there globally, and what is Bangladesh's position in production?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: There are five species of hilsa worldwide. While hilsa can be found in 11 countries, Bangladesh holds the primary and leading position in production. We account for nearly 86 per cent of the world's hilsa supply.

Bangladesh's waters include the Bay of Bengal, rivers, and estuaries, and we are primarily connected with Myanmar and India. However, we are the main stakeholder in this vast marine area. Among the five species of hilsa found in our waters, three are notable. The first is our national fish, Tenualosa ilisha, commonly known as Padma hilsa. The second is Tenualosa toli, also referred to as Chandana hilsa. The third is hilsa kelly or Kanagurta, locally known as Gurta hilsa. Unlike Padma hilsa, Gurta and Chandana hilsa are not migratory.

Our national hilsa can freely navigate through seas, rivers, and estuaries, and it has a remarkable adaptability. It can even traverse into other countries, showing no regard for geographical boundaries. Hilsa can cross the borders of any nation via the sea, reaching other countries and oceans. Therefore, we must nurture and cherish hilsa in our waters, and we must take all necessary actions to ensure its preservation.

Views Bangladesh: Since the interim government came to power, hilsa has become an "economic and political fish," as well as a "tool of diplomacy." What is the reason for this?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: Hilsa, the king of fish, satisfies our taste, nutrition, and protein needs. It holds immense cultural significance and social value in Bengali traditions and festivities. Many celebrations cannot be imagined without this fish, making it extremely important and a Geographical Indication (GI) product in our country.

Hilsa is caught as it migrates to rivers and estuaries to spawn and feed. It is also caught in the sea by fishermen. On average, hilsa production in Bangladesh has steadily increased over the past two to three years, reaching a record of nearly 571,000 metric tons this year. For these reasons, the interim government has leveraged hilsa for high-value exports, making it a "tool of foreign policy" and a component of "diplomatic relations."

The people of the country must first be given the right to enjoy hilsa. This is our traditional and geographical right. The government's efforts to make this fish accessible and affordable for everyone are also a positive step.

Views Bangladesh: According to the Fisheries Research Institute, hilsa production in the country increased from nearly 200,000 tons to about 600,000 tons between 2006 and 2023. Why, then, is domestic demand still not being met? And why are prices out of reach for consumers?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: In 2002-2003, hilsa was nearly on the brink of extinction, with production at just about 190,000 metric tons. Through extensive research and effective management, we have now reached 571,000 metric tons. Stakeholders include researchers, extension workers, NGOs, universities, and the media. The media has played a significant role in raising public awareness and supporting the enforcement of bans. However, we now face challenges.

According to all calculations and statistics, as hilsa production increases, prices should decrease, making it more affordable for the public. Instead, the opposite is happening—the price of hilsa is rising day by day. It has reached a point where the average person cannot afford it. For instance, since the beginning of this year, hilsa prices have been high, and the announcement of exports to India has further pushed prices up, which was not desirable.

There is widespread criticism about hilsa prices, both in markets and within households across the country. This was not supposed to happen; the expectation was that everyone could buy hilsa and enjoy its taste. So where is the flaw? We need to find that out and everyone must work towards a solution. As a researcher, I believe it is crucial to investigate the costs associated with bringing one kilogram of hilsa from the sea, river, or estuary to the market. We need to understand how many steps it takes for the fish to reach the consumer and what costs are incurred at each stage that lead to such a price increase. The extent of the increase seems unreasonable. I challenge that there are manipulations at play here. We must address this and work towards a solution to bring prices to a more manageable level.

Monitoring the market for price control is also an urgent need. If there is a so-called syndicate operating in the market, administrative action must be taken to dismantle it based on appropriate evidence.

Views Bangladesh: The government has been providing rice and financial assistance to fishermen during the ban for several years. However, even with such high hilsa prices, why is the quality of life for fishermen not improving? Why do they have to rely on government support?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: Poor fishermen often leave their families behind for 10 to 15 days to go deep-sea fishing for hilsa, taking along nets, boats, fuel, and food. They risk their lives, sometimes getting lost in storms and rough seas, yet they continue this profession, passed down through generations. Even though hilsa is sold at high prices in the market, the fishermen do not benefit from this. Most fishermen do not own their own nets or boats; they borrow money from moneylenders to go fishing. After catching fish, they sell it to these moneylenders or middlemen at the fish landing centers. The middlemen buy the fish at local prices, deduct their costs, and then give the remaining money to the fishermen. This amount is often insufficient to cover their daily wages or labor costs.

Moreover, while consumers are buying hilsa at high prices, fishermen do not see any of that profit. The benefits primarily go to the middlemen and various levels of wholesale and retail traders, creating significant disparities.

It's not just about price adjustment; we need to create a system that allows fishermen to sustain themselves throughout the year, including during the ban. They should be able to support their families and improve their quality of life in a sustainable and stable manner.

Views Bangladesh: The government has been providing rice and financial assistance to fishermen during the ban for several years. However, even with such high hilsa prices, why is the quality of life of the fishermen not improving? Why do they have to rely on government support?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: Poor fishermen often leave their families behind for 10 to 15 days to go deep-sea fishing hilsa, taking along nets, boats, fuel, and food. They risk their lives, sometimes getting lost in storms and rough seas, yet they continue this profession, passed down through generations. Even though hilsa is sold at high prices in the market, the fishermen do not benefit from this. Most fishermen do not have their own nets or boats; they borrow money from moneylenders to go fishing. After catching fish, they sell it to these moneylenders or middlemen at the fishery ghats. The middlemen buy the fish at local prices, deduct their costs, and then give the remaining money to the fishermen. This amount is often insufficient to cover their daily wages or labor costs.

Moreover, while consumers are buying hilsa at high prices, fishermen do not see any of that profit. The benefits primarily go to the middlemen and various levels of wholesale and retail traders, creating significant disparities.

It's not just about price adjustment; we need to create a system that allows fishermen to sustain themselves throughout the year, including during the ban. They should be able to support their families and improve their quality of life in a sustainable and stable manner.

Views Bangladesh: Hilsa has no geographical boundaries. During the ban in our country, fishermen from India and Myanmar catch hilsa freely. Is Bangladesh being deprived of desired production due to neighboring countries not adhering to bans and lack of coordination?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: If we cultivate fish in ponds or any place, their numbers will increase. By releasing fry and providing food in ponds, we see growth. Similarly, if we treat the sea, rivers, and estuaries like ponds—by releasing hilsa fry, nurturing them, providing food and management, and allowing their movement without interference until they reach a certain age, while designating those areas as sanctuaries—hilsa production will further increase. For instance, this year, we are releasing hilsa fry during the ongoing 22-day ban from October 13 to November 3.

Thus, creating opportunities for hilsa to spawn during the ban is akin to nurturing fry. The ban from March 1 to April 30, which prohibits the catching of jatka (young hilsa), is designed to allow them to grow from 12-13 cm to 26-27 cm. By not catching jatka and allowing free movement, we create conditions for them to grow. Due to their migratory nature, no matter where they travel in the world, they will return to the waters where they grew up and found security. Even if 2-4 per cent go to India, it won't harm us.

However, the two periods of bans in Bangladesh do not align with those of neighboring countries, India and Myanmar. They believe their timing is correct, while we believe ours is. It's crucial to eliminate this lack of coordination and establish symmetry or alignment in the ban periods with these two countries. We must resolve these issues diplomatically in line with the Bengali calendar and the new moon/full moon cycles. Otherwise, all three countries will suffer. If hilsa is abundant in this vast water body, no one will need to illegally or forcefully fish in another's waters. Right now, fishermen from India and Myanmar are entering Bangladesh’s waters during our ban to catch hilsa and other fish. If a coordinated ban is enforced, such practices will cease.

View Bangladesh: The taste of hilsa in Bangladesh is the best in the world? Why is hilsa so delicious in the country?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: The hilsa found in Bangladesh's waters is not the same species as the hilsa found in other countries. Firstly, the variety of the fish contributes to the differences in taste. The habitat, such as the salinity levels, also plays a significant role. The quality of water affects the flavor, as does the difference between freshwater and brackish water. The duration for which the hilsa has been in fresh water or river flow also impacts its taste. Additionally, the type of food the fish consumes affects its flavor.

The water quality parameters, such as carbon dioxide, hardness, salinity, pH, and alkalinity, are all well-maintained in our country’s waters. This is why hilsa prefers to thrive and feed in these waters.

In the Padma-Meghna rivers and their estuarine waters, there are abundant phytoplankton and zooplankton, which are hilsa's favorite foods. They also consume diatoms, dinoflagellate, and other nutritious elements like nitzschia and daphnia, which contribute to their growth and fatness. The fatty acids stored in their bodies, particularly omega-3 fatty acids, are what make them delicious. Furthermore, variations in their diet according to age also lead to differences in taste.

There is also a taste variation between the hilsa from the sea and that from rivers. Hilsa from the Padma River is not only more beautiful but also tastier compared to that from the sea. Although the sea hilsa eats similar food, their body structure, color, and fat content differ. Sea hilsa tends to be more elongated, less vibrant, and grayish in color, while river or estuarine hilsa is brightly colored, somewhat flatter, and fattier. It is this fat content that primarily causes the differences in taste and aroma.

View Bangladesh: Does the taste of hilsa in Bangladesh still remain the same as before? Why can’t we smell its aroma from a few houses away when cooked?

Dr. Anisur Rahman: The fishing nets used in the past were handmade or manual, whereas today’s nets and devices are modern and made with automatic machines. Previously, well-fed, large hilsa was caught in rivers or estuaries using boats or trawlers. Now, fishing is done with large ships or trawlers using current nets, and eco-fish finders are used to track hilsa schools. Various harmful nets, like current nets or Chinese doors, are used, leading to mass catches before the fish reach maturity.
These fish are transported and supplied to the market in poor conditions, often dying before they can be enjoyed as delicious food. Consequently, their taste is compromised. Additionally, seasonal changes in weather and climate also affect the growth and taste of hilsa.

Hilsa prefers clean water for spawning and feeding on its favorite foods. However, pollution and toxic chemicals have degraded the quality of water in our rivers, canals, and wetlands. The food available in these waters is now toxic, foul-smelling, and unsafe. As a result, the number of Hilsa in our rivers has decreased, and those that are present do not taste as good as before.

Moreover, consumers are often misled regarding the hilsa from Chandpur, with claims that it is Padma Hilsa, which is not true.
Therefore, we need to consider the impacts of climate change, lack of rainfall, and water pollution. If we do not address these issues, we will face challenges in securing hilsa in the future.

(Continued)