What’s story behind Hilsa hype

The ‘hype’ around Hilsa has now become a source of hypertension for many. Observing the reactions of citizens in the media and on social platforms might give the impression that only the price of Hilsa is high, and all other fish are within reach! The frenzy over Hilsa makes it seem like life would be ruined without eating this fish or that it’s perhaps a magical cure for all diseases. The reality is, there are countless people for whom Hilsa holds no special appeal. Many do not even like it. So, why all the fuss? Does this frenzy drive up the price of Hilsa?

Hilsa is our national fish and the largest single-species catch in the country. During the season, the sheer volume of Hilsa on display in the markets is unmatched by any other fish. Fishery resources play a critical role in Bangladesh’s nutrition, employment, and foreign exchange earnings. Around 60% of the country's animal protein comes from fish. Approximately two million people are directly employed in the fisheries sector, with another one million indirectly dependent on it.

What is Hilsa’s contribution?
According to the Department of Fisheries, Hilsa accounts for about 13-14% of the country's total fish production. Nearly half a million people are directly involved in catching Hilsa, and another 2 to 2.5 million people are either directly or indirectly dependent on Hilsa-related trade. Bangladesh currently ranks first among 11 Hilsa-harvesting countries. Around 40% of the world's Hilsa is harvested from Bangladesh's seas and rivers. Annually, over half a million tons of Hilsa are harvested in Bangladesh.

Hilsa holds a special place in the Bengali palate. The fish has been present in this region since ancient times. Records from over 900 years ago, including texts by the scholar Jimutavahana, mention Hilsa. The fish is widespread, inhabiting seas, estuaries, and rivers. In the oceans, they range from the Persian Gulf, Red Sea, and Arabian Sea to the Bay of Bengal, Vietnam, and the South China Sea. Rivers like the Euphrates and Tigris in Iraq and Iran, the Sindh in Pakistan, the rivers of India and Myanmar, and rivers in Bangladesh such as the Padma, Jamuna, Meghna, and Karnaphuli are all home to Hilsa.

Hilsa migrate to shallow freshwater rivers to spawn. Eggs are laid in the river currents, and the larvae, known as "jatka," float downstream and grow in the sea. As mature fish, they return to the rivers to complete their life cycle.

What happens if you don’t eat Hilsa?
Some might say, “What happens if you don’t eat Hilsa?” It's akin to the old saying, "The grapes are sour." The truth is, if someone doesn’t want to eat Hilsa, they won't; but if they can afford it, they will. But is the frenzy over Hilsa purely because of its taste? Nutritionists argue that Hilsa is nutritionally rich. It contains high levels of protein, unsaturated fats, minerals, and vitamins A and D, along with a small amount of vitamin B. The fish’s fat contains around 2% omega-3 fatty acids, which help reduce cholesterol levels in the body. The taste and aroma of Hilsa depend on its fat content; the higher the fat, the better the taste and smell. Unlike the fat in meat, fish fat is beneficial.

Why is Hilsa not available everywhere?
There was a time when Hilsa was found in most of Bangladesh's major rivers. However, dams built both inside and outside the country have reduced water flow, leading to siltation, pollution, and destruction of the fish’s habitat. Rivers like the Feni, Matamuhuri, Karnaphuli, Dhaleshwari, Kaliganga, Shitalakshya, Dhanua, Kalni, and Chitra have lost their Hilsa populations entirely, while the upper sections of the Padma and rivers like Gorai and Madhumati are also nearing destruction. Due to the Farakka Barrage, built on the Ganges, Hilsa is being caught in coastal areas and estuaries before they can migrate upstream to spawn. As a result, Hilsa is rarely found in the rivers of northern Bangladesh.

A shared resource in the Bay of Bengal
Hilsa is a shared resource in the Bay of Bengal. The fish caught in the parts of the Bay belonging to Bangladesh, India, and Myanmar come from the same stock. India's rivers like the Ganges and its Hooghly-Matla estuary, Godavari, and Daya also provide breeding grounds for Hilsa, where young "jatka" are caught in large quantities. Therefore, sustainable management of Hilsa requires joint management and regional cooperation. Otherwise, if one country continues conservation efforts while another overharvests, tensions could arise. Declaring sanctuaries, conducting joint research, sharing information, and developing a regional management plan for Hilsa are key areas where cooperation could help increase fish stocks.

Why so much discussion about Hilsa?
Why all this talk about Hilsa? Is it just because of its price and the fact that people can’t afford it? Bangladesh’s freshwater rivers and bodies of water host around 266 identified species of fish, while 475 species from 133 families have been found in the marine regions. Yet, only a handful of fish are now commonly seen in the market. Many fish that once thrived naturally in rivers, canals, ponds, and wetlands are now endangered.

Every year, thousands of metric tons of pesticides from agricultural fields mix into rivers. Thousands of factories discharge untreated toxic waste, household garbage, and sewage directly into rivers and coastal areas. These factors have not only threatened Hilsa but also endangered other fish species in open water bodies. Many fish, like the orange-colored tapse, now sell for 600 to 700 taka per kilogram. Large tapse, if fresh, fetch even higher prices. Fish like Ayr and boal have become unattainable for the middle class, selling for over 1,200 to 1,500 taka per kilogram. Rare river fish like rita and kajli, which used to be staples, are now hardly seen or priced exorbitantly, even surpassing Hilsa in some cases.

In summary, discussing Hilsa and lamenting over its price only serves to inflate its brand value. Instead, the focus should be on the natural fish disappearing from rivers, wetlands, and ponds, which once formed a vital part of the Bengali diet. Investigating the reasons for this disappearance—whether it be excessive fertilizer and pesticide use, river obstructions, or water pollution—should be a priority for the state.

The taste of milk can’t be replaced by buttermilk
Many river fish are now being farmed commercially. The contribution of fisheries scientists in this regard is undeniable. However, it must also be acknowledged that the taste of a wild-grown shing fish from rivers, ponds, or wetlands can never be matched by farm-raised fish. Even though they may look the same, the difference in taste is significant. Surely, there must also be a difference in nutritional value. So, while it's somewhat reassuring that many fish species that have disappeared from rivers are now being brought back through aquaculture, and while this certainly helps meet the demand for animal protein, it’s not particularly good news for those who have experienced the real taste of fish from natural habitats. They crave the authentic taste of the fish.

To restore that authentic taste, we need to improve the environments of ponds, dighis (large ponds), canals, wetlands, and haors (seasonally flooded wetlands) connected to rivers to increase the natural breeding of fish. Farmers should be encouraged to reduce the use of harmful pesticides in crop production.

Maintaining the flow of rivers is a challenging task, especially during the dry season. As a downstream country, the flow of rivers in Bangladesh not only depends on its own climate and weather but also on the actions of India, the upstream country. If India withdraws water from shared rivers for its own benefit and doesn't release the necessary water during Bangladesh’s dry season, keeping it dammed or blocked by barrages, the rivers of Bangladesh become lifeless. Bangladesh has been dealing with this crisis for years during the dry season. Therefore, to bring back the past abundance of delicious river fish, Bangladesh must secure its fair share of water from shared rivers.

Syeda Rizwana Hasan, advisor to the Ministry of Water Resources in the interim government, recently said that there will soon be efforts to hold meetings with India to secure Bangladesh's rightful share of water. It’s important to remember that Bangladesh’s fair share of water from shared rivers is not only essential for the sake of river water and silt but also for reviving the identity of Bangladesh as a riverine nation, where fish and rice are the staple foods. It is due to this deep connection that the phrase “Mache-Bhate Bangali” (Bengalis live on fish and rice) came to be. Restoring that identity will also require robust river diplomacy between Bangladesh and India.

Amin Al Rasheed: Journalist and Author